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Help with the 'action'?

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Help with the 'action'? Empty Help with the 'action'?

Post  Nocturnal_Pulse Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:22 pm

I really don't like my string to neck distance and would like to lower the action.

Do you recommend me a way to do it?

Or should I find a repairer?

Do I have to adjust it everytime I change strings?

I've read that the action has to be as low as it gets so the buzz is minimum.

Can you give me some info please?


Thank you!
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Post  Nocturnal_Pulse Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:32 pm

Thanks max...

I suppose I don't have the skills to do it myself... hehe a repairshop will need to do the trick.
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Post  DubHertz Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:56 pm

Nocturnal_Pulse wrote:I really don't like my string to neck distance and would like to lower the action.

Do you recommend me a way to do it?

You should have a small allen key supplied with your bass to adjust the small allen head srews on each bridge saddle

Or should I find a repairer?

You could try it yourself then if you mess it up you can bring it to a Luthier

Do I have to adjust it everytime I change strings?

Only if you change the string guage or type of strings (flatwound)

I've read that the action has to be as low as it gets so the buzz is minimum.

Not everyone is happy with this, if you play very softly with your plucking hand then low action is good. But on the other hand a more agressive player requires a medium to high action. How low your action can go also depends on the quality of the frets on the neck, sometimes the fret heights are uneven (expensive basses usually have better fretwork hence the price). With fretless necks uneveness in the wood of the fretboard can determine how low your action can go.

Can you give me some info please?

High action can also be caused by bowing of the neck, this will require adjustment of the truss rod (not a difficult job if you are patient). Lastly high action at the higher frets on the neck can be caused by the way the neck sits in the pocket of the body, this requires shimming

# Click here # for a guide on setting up bass guitars

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Post  Nocturnal_Pulse Mon Sep 06, 2010 9:07 pm

DubHertz wrote:
Nocturnal_Pulse wrote:I really don't like my string to neck distance and would like to lower the action.

Do you recommend me a way to do it?

You should have a small allen key supplied with your bass to adjust the small allen head srews on each bridge saddle

Yes I have 2 keys for the head screws one bigger and one smaller (in diameter)

Or should I find a repairer?

You could try it yourself then if you mess it up you can bring it to a Luthier

lol the cost would be more if I mess up my guitar lol but you have a point: risk and get taught

Do I have to adjust it everytime I change strings?

Only if you change the string guage or type of strings (flatwound)

Don't have the intention to change the string gauge to flawound so we are ok

I've read that the action has to be as low as it gets so the buzz is minimum.

Not everyone is happy with this, if you play very softly with your plucking hand then low action is good. But on the other hand a more agressive player requires a medium to high action. How low your action can go also depends on the quality of the frets on the neck, sometimes the fret heights are uneven (expensive basses usually have better fretwork hence the price). With fretless necks uneveness in the wood of the fretboard can determine how low your action can go.

I can't really tell that i am a soft player or a hard player, in the level I am now, I really am in a very medium state of playing. I mean, my hands hurt if I play in a very quick tempo like 146 and my muscles hurt a lot sometimes. I ve tried my best friends' bass (BC Rich) which has low action and I was really jealous because I would play so easily in every tempo and every level of aggression.

That for fretwork I second that, my bass is a starter one and cheap I don't know if it's installments and work are crafty and neat or would cause trouble if I low the action. It seems that I been using it with it's default action which must be half of centimeter or more away from the fretboard and that hurts a lot as I start playing difficult songs (for me) that need stretching further my hands..

Can you give me some info please?

High action can also be caused by bowing of the neck, this will require adjustment of the truss rod (not a difficult job if you are patient). Lastly high action at the higher frets on the neck can be caused by the way the neck sits in the pocket of the body, this requires shimming

Nope I've checked the neck and it's straight; no curves at all. For now.

# Click here # for a guide on setting up bass guitars

I am now checking the pdf you attached, I want to thank you very much for all the info you gave me, they are priceless!

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Post  Nocturnal_Pulse Mon Sep 06, 2010 9:38 pm

I've taken 3 photos of my action which is about to reach for the stars lol

album password is 'bassguitar' no quotes

https://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x116/Legnahtog/bass/
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Post  DubHertz Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:07 pm

Yep, thats some seriously high action lol!

Using the small allen key turn the screws on each saddle counterclockwise, I would start with one full turn each screw - do this on all saddles, retune then see if it is comfortable to play without any buzzing on the frets. Follow this procedure until you are at a height that you are a happy with.

The fretboard usually has a curved radius and the strings should follow this radius in terms of height. Tunemybass.com has some radius guages that you can print onto card for final adjustment. But for now just apply the same amount of turns to each screw on each saddle.


My jazz bass action
[img]Help with the 'action'? 101_2410[/img]


[img]Help with the 'action'? 101_2510[/img]

[img]Help with the 'action'? 101_2511[/img]
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Post  Nocturnal_Pulse Mon Sep 06, 2010 11:25 pm

DubHertz wrote:Yep, thats some seriously high action lol!

Using the small allen key turn the screws on each saddle counterclockwise, I would start with one full turn each screw - do this on all saddles, retune then see if it is comfortable to play without any buzzing on the frets. Follow this procedure until you are at a height that you are a happy with.

The fretboard usually has a curved radius and the strings should follow this radius in terms of height. Tunemybass.com has some radius guages that you can print onto card for final adjustment. But for now just apply the same amount of turns to each screw on each saddle.

Lol as Socrates once told, as you age you always learn soooooo yes I think I need some serious tuning.

I will follow your instructions, one full turn on all and checking furthermore playing.

And I will post some pictures (it may be useful for some other peeps too)

I would like to thank you again hehe

I will tune it tomorrow since it's 2:00 am and my eyes aren't very cooperative at the mo!
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Post  ThreeLetterSyndrom Tue Sep 07, 2010 7:35 am

Actually, I played for 1.5 years on an instrument with an action of that kind. It was my first. Razz

Now I have finger strenght and playing on a proper bass feels so much better.

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Post  maxf13 Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:30 am

yeah same here really
on my bass the action had to be that high because the neck was warped and the fretwork was non-existant
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Post  Dropthelines585 Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:53 am

If my first bass would have been set up correctly, I would not be nearly as good today.
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Post  DubHertz Tue Sep 07, 2010 10:49 am

I had a Stagg bass with a warped neck as my first bass with high action... It really makes you appreciate a bass with nice low action.

The bass in the pictures has Status-Graphite flatwound strings these seem to allow for some really low action ad they are like fence wire in terms of rigidity
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Post  Nocturnal_Pulse Tue Sep 07, 2010 12:42 pm

I know that a higher action can make me better in some ways but with my action I can hardly slide in 3 frets, strings are pulling my hands off and not to mention the tense when I try to play with chords lower in the fb...

I will now set it up and see how it goes.

I hope I wont need intonation setup etc after that...
or even if I do, will do it; so the proper sentence is 'i hope i wont need repair after I set my bass up'
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Post  Nocturnal_Pulse Tue Sep 07, 2010 3:52 pm

OK done.

not a big deal actually.

Neck is still straight...
Help with the 'action'? Zi6_2877-1

The only problem is (as seen in the video I attach) that I hit the pickups when I walk.

I assume that I should change my plucking hand position?

The sound is alright even if I hit the pickups but still it's annoying

(In the video my best friend TRIES some filth it's not my guitar plugged)

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Post  ThreeLetterSyndrom Tue Sep 07, 2010 4:09 pm

Lower your pickups according to your strings, then. Wink

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Post  Nocturnal_Pulse Tue Sep 07, 2010 4:13 pm

ThreeLetterSyndrom wrote:Lower your pickups according to your strings, then. Wink

good i thought of that but wanted to make sure...

Thank you all you all are brilliant technitians!

(I wonder why don't we get a frakkin manual with our basses.........)
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